First of all watch this the whole way though. No matter how painful.
Cringe, laugh and feel embarrassed at the same time.
I love weird original bikes and these guys are on another level.
Now go check out there website www.erectusbike.com they are serious.

Hopefully now my dumb ideas will pale in comparison.

Ok heres my "mountain fix" with its new wheels






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They are 48hole deep Vs laced 3cross with powdercoated spokes and anodised nipples.
The front hub is a Peregrine with a 14mm x 10mm axel. The rear is a cheap Keyin hub I found on ebay. It has a Londonfixie bolt on cog mounted to the disc brake mount.
There are of course better alternatives if you wanted to do this (Im not suggesting you should). Spend a bit more money and get a 48hole front disc hub. The flange spacing will be better and make a stronger wheel. Or spend even more money and buy some profile hubs.

Ok heres another bad idea Ive been doing for a while.
Putting BMX cranks on fixed gears.
This is how I get it to work. First off you'll need short ones so you don't get too much toe overlap and pedal strike, if its a track bike 165mm is good, a lot of downhillers used short cranks to stop them bottoming out on there massive suspension rigs. Also kids sometimes use them for bmx racing as there legs are short. If your using a mountainbike frame you can afford to run slightly longer cranks as there is more clearance up front with a longer top tube and more ground clearance with the raised BB height.
Profiles are easy because the tpi on the sprocket bolt is the same as crank bolts, as you can see here.

(that other bolt is one I found used to mount indoor rock climbing holds)

using a tapered profile flush bolt or something similar means the the bolt is really jammed in there with no room for any movement which causes it to undo. Just file out a little bit of the back of the chainring to get the bolt to fit snug.







use a bit of locktape or locktight on the threads and do it up as hard as you can before bending the allen key.

Its also a good idea (unless you wanna be riding like a cowboy) to get the spindle machined down as much as you frame allows. This can be tricky to determine but basically if you cranks are on all the way and are still 15mm from you chainstays on either side with a bunch of spacers in there, you can take it to a machine shop and get them to lathe off 12mm either side. Profile spindles will have enough spline on them to do this, other spindles like some DMR ones taper from 19mm to 22mm so you cant cut them down.

Of course easiest way is to use the splined tree sprockets but they only come in 36tooth at the moment and are pretty much sold out everywhere. This way will work and you can use your favorite sprocket/chainring/wheel whatever you call it.

Thats enough blah blah blah from me, most of you know this shit anyway. (Or know enough not to bother) So check out my new beer getter setup.



And I got my track bike set up like a track bike now too




unfortunately while working on another bike I forgot I borrowed the crank bolt off it and on the way back from the pub the crank arm fell off :( Being too drunk to ride it with one leg and no brakes I ended up skooting it to stratons work and riding one of his bikes home.
The next day it was delivered home. Thanks Straton!





Here's a pic I drew at the pub.


Mad plans.